Fresh ingredients, bold, layered flavours and a natural heat: these are what define the irresistible cuisine of India’s southern state of Kerala — and you can experience it for yourself here in York.
Our city is home to a host of excellent Indian eateries but there are only two that specialise in the traditional cookery style of Kerala: Kalpakavadi and its sister restaurant Coconut Lagoon, which was founded in 2012 to meet demand from those who’d visited the region and wanted to continue to enjoy its unique flavours. When the opportunity arose to open a second venue seven years later, chef and owner Saji Kurian jumped at the chance. “We had so many dishes, flavours and ideas that we couldn’t fully showcase at Coconut Lagoon,” he says. “Kalpakavadi became our way of bringing even more of Kerala’s culinary heritage to the city.”
Located at 26 Fossgate, Kalpakavadi boasts an interior that’s been transformed with mood lighting, artistic wooden panelling and comfortable seating to create a cosy and atmospheric dining space.
The restaurant’s name means ‘land of the coconut’ and this is a key ingredient in many of its dishes, along with herbs and spices like banana and curry leaves, cinnamon sticks, cardamom and star anise, all of which are imported directly from Kerala. As Saji explains: ”These flavours are challenging to replicate without authentic regional produce, and they enable us to recreate the aromas, colours, and textures of genuine South Indian cooking.” Kalpakavadi’s kitchen is led by ‘homegrown’ Keralan chefs and authenticity is at the centre of all it does.
Keralan cuisine is well-suited to meat-lovers and vegetarians alike and you can begin your meal at the restaurant with starters such as Lemon Garlic Scallops or Chilli Paneer. You can then tuck into options like Kozhi Mali – a warming dish prepared with chicken and fresh green peppercorns – or the aromatic and fiery Nadal Fish Curry. Another of Saji’s personal recommendations is Meen Pollichathu, featuring delicate fish that’s marinated, wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled to produce a smoky, slightly sour flavour. There’s also the Tiffin Box, which offers a “wholesome snapshot of everyday Indian home cooking” by replicating the nutritious, comforting lunches that have been eaten by generations of students, office workers, and railway travellers across India.
If you’re looking for a Christmas meal out that doesn’t involve the usual turkey and sprouts, Kalpakavadi is currently offering a three or five-course à la carte menu that blends festive flavours with Keralan tradition for a truly unique and indulgent experience. Next year, diners will also be able to visit the restaurant for a special Valentine’s Day meal or to celebrate the festival of Onam in September with a 28-dish vegetarian feast.
